KTM 690 Rally Build

Finally a weekend again and getting it all finished up. Below is the end result from today. Some minor tweaks still to be done like LED indicators and foldable mirrors but otherwise complete and ready for a test ride tomorrow. Take off the tanks for the very last time in order to get space to fiddle back the airbox. Airbox slides in. Putting battery back Putting ECU (bike computer) back. Installing OBD2 bluetooth adapter so I can run diagnostics and debug the bike from my android phone. Fits snuggly in next to the battery. Ok, now over to pimping it all up. Graphics all laid out on bed. Contact cleaner to clean the surface and sharp blade Expose a 10 mm wide sticky part on the back using the blade. Once you cleaned you align the graphics and let the 10mm strip stick. Then you remove one side at a time and try to push all air bubbles out. Some of the graphics even have holes no issue with air bubbles.

Day 3 and here is the result from the day. Getting the fairings on to look like a bride in white. First thing was to fit the headlight into the plastic mask holding it.  This should later be trimmed for left or right hand traffic...ormaybe not if you crossing many countries with different traffic. The mask goes onto the frame but first the cable loom needed to be tidied up with some zip ties. The headlight pops easily into place and is to be held by two screws at the top and two at the bottom White cover goes on top with some funny rubber nuts. This might make it possible to rip off the white shield. If it is good or bad remains to be seen.  Under the headlight the air intake goes to tidy things up. The side fairings need to be drilled. To know where to drill you fit a head less screw in the holes. Then add some tape on the inside and press the fairing held in place inwards so the headless nut makes a mark.

So in the beginning of this week I got Rally Raid to UPS over the missing parts which arrived conveniently on Friday night. The missing parts was the headlight and the fuel pump socket that connects the new tanks with the existing one. In order to pull out the fuel pump I needed to empty the tank. People complaining it is hard but with a siphoning pump plus a 30 cm extension duct taped on to the bottom on the straight part, to reach the bottom of the tank, it all went fine. I simply used som fuel first to clean the new tanks and then filled them up from the main rear tank. To get to the fuel pump the rear mud flap needs to be taken off. And the fuel pump can be pulled out The cover clips loose easily with a pin on each side. To feed fuel out you need to drill 4mm two holes, one thru the new openeing where the banjo bolt goes and one 10mm above the metal socket.   It all fits snuggly in place afterwards. To mount